Mules

After being couped up at home for the last couple of days, I rallied despite my ill stomach and went out in the city. Ben, Rachel and I enjoyed coffee, beer and wine at El Cuartito, a cafe´in town. Then we hit a couple bars on the way home. Instead of taking a cab home, we decided to walk home together because we had Big Ben in tow. Big Ben got hungry though and we walked into a restaurant and then did the unthinkable. Big Ben ordered a Big Mac. However, Mickie D´s only had a pechuga, a chicken sandwich, left, but that was good enough for Ben. And I confess, I had 12 of his fries. Of course, my stomach made it known the next morning that it was not happy with that decision.

Today, Callie, Tiffany and I delivered drugs to the children to treat the parasites in their tummies. To get to the school, we waited 40 min for the chicken bus, then we took the bus 20 min and got off at the second Coca Cola ad sign. Then, we walked up a dirt road for 15 min and made a right at a pole, and then 7 min later another right at the TIGO cell phone ad. We eventually arrived at the school. It took us some time to find the right classrooms for the right kids. In this video, we are distributing the drugs to the kids. You can only view the videos on the blog and not on the email versions of this blog. You can hear my bad pronunciation of their names too. During one of the classes, we called out Henry's name many times, but only when the teacher called out his name, did he hear it. We apparently did not pronounce it with the right accent.

We interrupted one class only to find all the boys fighting with each other. There was no adult supervision and the boys aged 10 had fake guns and their fists up ready to battle each other. We tried to stop the fighting, but it only continued outside in the courtyard. In another class, the teacher had to unlock the door to let us in. Interestingly, the kids had no shame though in raising their hands to indicate that they had given their stool samples to be tested and readily came up to pick up their drugs.

Sick and Down for the Count

I wake up a little earlier each day because I'm having a harder time following the migration patterns of my personal belongings in my room. I think my sunglasses entered into the Bermuda Triangle although I found where Esmeralda hung my hat. I only spent 15 minutes mapping out all the longitude and lattitude lines of my room in order to find it. Then, off I went to start my day starting with a couple of sneezes.

Interestingly, whenever someone sneezes, people say "salud" for health. On the second sneeze, they say "dinero" for money. On the third sneeze, they say "amor" for love. As Gladis tells me, if you have dinero, then you have love and so you really only need two blessings. Here, I took a photo of a man right after he sneezed.

At the clinic, I played pharmacist and calculated how much medicine the kids would need for their parasitic conditions. I might need my own stool sample checked at the clinic since the ceviche took me down yesterday. I spent most of my time comforting my sad stomach. Normally, my stomach can weather any street vendor in any country, but ceviche in Guatemala? Bad idea. This is where survival of the most intelligent occurs, and I failed miserably. I gave in and dispensed Cipro to myself out of my drug bag. Later that evening, I watched Michael Moore´s Sicko documentary out of inspiration.

My awesome health insurance in the States that paid for just about every hospital visit, overnight stay, and drug last year ends in July. After that, I can either spend $455/month in COBRA, go without, or find some other plan. Since I don't have an income, but I do have a jumbo mortgage, a line of credit, and student loans, I will most likely go with another cheaper international plan that includes medical evacuation. Knowing me, I might just need it. However, after watching Sicko, I might be better off with just using the cheap and available Guatemalan health services.

At the clinic today, I watched as one of the teachers taught the 11-14 year olds about vitamins and puberty. I don't think my Spanish is advanced enough for those topics and I hope I can just teach the first graders about hygiene and nutrition. I may end up giving misinformation otherwise and then these kids will forever be scarred. I can not even imagine the ramifications.

My First Day on the Job

Normally, when I start a new job, I create a 90 day plan for myself along with set objectives and I set up 1:1s with essential people. Since I didn´t know what I would do at the clinic, I arrived with just my flexibility and enthusiasm to help. I´m volunteering with Primeros Pasos www.primerospasos.org that provides basic healthcare to children in a rural community. A quarter of all deaths in Guatemala is due to infant mortality. Primeros Pasos is working to reduce that number through health education programs and easy access to healthcare.

Every school in the region is granted a free visit to the clinic once a year for an annual checkup. Today, the kids, aged 4 to 7 from a local school, arrived in mass. I started the day by weighing them, taking their height measurements and giving them high cincos (5´s) when they arrived while the other volunteers registered the students and checked their stool samples for parasites. Under a microscope, I saw my first parasite, a circular blog that wiggles around and causes mass unhappiness to its unwilling victim.

Then, I attended one of the health education classes that I hope to teach once my Spanish improves. I even learned a new tip or two on hygiene and nutrition. The teacher organized games for the students to learn how to wash their hands properly, brush their teeth, throw trash in the trashcan and tell the difference between good and bad foods. When the teacher put up a picture of McDonald´s fries, the children all agreed that the fries are good until the teacher convinced them slowly otherwise.

Afterwards, I watched as the doctor examined several kids. A couple kids had lice and I actually saw the bugs running around on their heads, another child had ticks and another had a bacterial infection on his arm. I just wanted to take them all and give them a big hug of love.

After the examination, the kids all received a bag with a bar of soap, a toothbrush, drugs or lice shampoo if they needed it and instructions on proper hygiene that they gave to their waiting parents in the hallway. I love this organization and I believe they are improving health care in this community. I can use my own visit since I made the mistake of eating ceviche yesterday and now I´m paying for it. I need to temper my adventurous appetite. We´ll see if the clinic lets me return tomorrow.

Lakeside

I said my farewells to Emma and Ian who are off on another adventure and I joined the guys and Rachel to Lake Atitlan before saying good-bye to most of them as well.

At the lake, I enjoyed my first Swedish massage in Guatemala. For $17/hr I enjoyed receiving a massage lakeside. However, for the first time, my phone rang non-stop from international calls. I can't figure out how to get my voicemails and so you are better off just calling again since I have no idea who called in the first place. By the way, I'm keeping this number and so feel free to call me since it's free for me to receive calls 502 43608200, but just don't leave messages.

Earlier, we took some kayaks out and around the lake. Once again, the rain came to join us on our activities and so Rachel and I paddled quickly back while the boys braved the rain. I didn't bother swimming in the Lake since it contains parasites. However, since Stephan had his own parasites throwing a party in his stomach, he swam around and figured they could all attack each other should more join the fun.

For a midnight snack, I bought some banana bread from a woman who had walked over an hour to sell her bread to tourists. The people of Guatemala work unbelievably hard for such little pay as do the children. I am constantly amazed at how many children are working manual labor jobs. I even met a couple of kids who worked the internet cafe by themselves. I argued with the 4 year old girl since she tried to overcharge me until her 5 year old brother set her straight. I can't believe I debated with her...

In the morning, we awoke to firecrackers. Anytime there is something to celebrate in Guatemala, firecrackers start the day. Everyday seems to be a celebration since we wake up to the loud booms of what sound like bombs blowing up the city all the time. If I didn't know better, I would think Bush had started another war of bomb and destroy. I hope I can figure out how to absentee vote in Nov. , but I digress...

Getting home from the Lake proved a little tricky. After waiting an hour for the chicken bus, we hopped on only to go about 3 blocks and then the driver took an hour break. To pass the time, I watched a man carefully eat his food from his backpack as though someone might take the food from him if he wasn't careful. We then started again, but we had to change buses at 148.5km. Since I didn't bring my measuring tape, I had to read the small signs on the street that called out each measurement. We drove so fast, most of signs blurred into nothing, but the driver did eventually stop at a major highway, and we all decided to get off. We did make it home 2 hours later than we had hoped.

Lost in Translation

On Wed, I completely forgot about my decision to go to the gym with Gladis at 6am and so Gladis came to my house and woke me up at 6:05am and we were out the door in record time at 6:10am. We took an aerobics class together, but I had a hard time keeping up with the over enthusiastic aerobics instructor. I like to blame it on the altitude, but honestly, I think I'm just out of shape. If I really want a workout, I can just join Astrid at Sunday mass instead. The stand up, kneel downs are enough for me.

Later that day, Gladis and I discussed our usual random topics. I explained how I wanted to find a dirt path nearby to run on instead of taking another aerobics class. I told her how the dirt road is better for the knees. However, instead of using the word "rudillos" for knees, I kept saying "rubios" for blondes. Gladis heard me say that dirt roads are better for the blondes. She responded with,"There are no blondes in Guatemala". I followed with, "How can there be no knees in Guatemala". Eventually, we sorted it out.

By the way, if you are interested in learning more about where I am learning Spanish, I just found their website. I hadn't planned on studying here, but it has worked out well for me in the end. www.elmundoenespanol.org

Yesterday, Emma, Rachel and I took a salsa class together. SalsaRosa taught us all the basic moves and then some in 50 minutes. I'm now ready to hit the dance floor again with my green-haired friend.

Too Busy to Study Spanish

I took my first chicken bus. Chicken buses are over-sized school buses on drugs. They are painted in a colorful manner and each has its own personality and flair. Mine had religious signs. The sign above my driver read, The hands of God. I can see how that makes sense. I have to have a lot of faith that I am going to make it to my next destination since riding in a chicken bus is akin to riding on a roller coaster, but without the fun since I hold onto the rail in front of me out of sheer fear. After being dropped off on a random street corner, I took a nearby pick-up truck up the hill in order to visit a colorful church. Again, I had faith that I would make it to my next destination.

I found the church interesting, however, the children and people interest me more. I have to be careful though in taking photos of children because the locals think tourists all want to kidnap their kids. Although, I find them all adorable, I don't plan to return with my own soccer team. Some tourists have even been killed because the locals feared for their children.

At a religious house along the way, I found a woman praying for money in front of a hand made cross. She hogged the cross, and so I couldn't pray for my own money.

After returning back to the city, I went out to dinner with some new found friends and then I watched a documentary on how Canadian mining firms are displacing the indigenous people of Guatemala. A real up-lifting movie.

Yesterday, after class, I took another chicken bus followed by a pick-up truck up to Fuentes Georginas, a natural hot springs nestled between Volcanoes. I enjoyed the afternoon relaxing in the scalding hot water surrounded by the mist of the Valley while rain fell on me. I can get use to this new lifestyle.

After dinner, I went out in search of salsa dancing. In the end, I spent the evening playing pool with friends and having my one cerveza. Of course, after a beer, I had to grab a bite to eat. At 11pm I stopped by the local street vendor and grabbed a hot dog, or as I like to call them perro caliente, and then I called it a night.

I forgot to mention my interview. I spoke with a woman from the rural health clinic yesterday and I plan to visit the clinic on Monday. If my Spanish is up to par, I will teach rural children about basic health topics and if not, then my other option is to work as a lab tech and test stool samples. As much as I like to be a team player, this isn't what I had in mind for myself. I need to cut down on my social activities and really study Spanish. I'll see how much I can learn in the next couple of days.

Unemployed Volunteer

Spanish school started. I spend 4 hours a day listening and speaking in Spanish in a one on one setting with Gladys. This takes a lot of concentration and my brain really wants to be on a holiday instead. I now talk to myself in Spanish and I'm sure I will start dreaming in it as well.

On my first day, I listened as Gladys told me all about her family history and that of her boyfriend's. I thought I had problems, but Gladys and her boyfriend have me beat. I would go into the details, but I don't want to depress myself again. Their stories involve young single mothers, prison, incest, affairs, never seeing their children again; just a regular soap opera. Only death is missing and I heard about him from Sophia, the woman at the airport. Apparently, she only returned to Guatemala to attend her nephew's funeral. He died in the Arizona desert after crossing the border. I didn't want to know how. I should have an interesting vocabulary after my time ends here.

On to lighter topics, the Red Cross rejected me. I offered myself up as a volunteer but they had no use for me. I have an interview with a clinic tomorrow that provides health education in rural communities. Who knew free labor is so hard to give? If the interview doesn't go well tomorrow, I may have to return to paid labor.

As for the weather, winter has officially begun with the downpour of rain last night. Rain came down so hard that it penetrated the roof above my bed. I fell asleep to the pitter patter of raindrops into the big yellow bucket next to my head. I spent much of the night staring at teddy bears.

The strangest aspect of my room is the stuffed animals hanging on the wall. I'm staying in Esmeralda's daughter's old room since her daughter now stays with her husband. I feel 12 years old again, but at least I know that Mickey and Minnie will protect me at night. Btw, I added the top photo as something cheery to this entry.

Feliz Cumpleaños again

Gadys has really welcomed me into her family. Not only did I attend her daughter's quinceanera, but she also let me attend her niece´s first birthday party; Andrea turned 1. I officially have more pics of Gladys' family than I do of my own. I also may have become an official party crasher.

Andrea's party started with the usual games such as musical chairs, find the gift blind-folded, the sac race and of course, hit the piñata. I cheered on with delight. The kids entertained me with their competitive desire to win anything. Funny how children´s spirit and games transcend borders. Then, we sang happy birthday in Spanish, ate cake, and watched as Andrea actually opened her own presents.

After the fiesta, the other students and I went for a lazy Sunday stroll up a local mountain. At the top, several local men watched us approach from above. I yelled out "touristas aqui'" and suddenly we had a new cadre of friends. We took photos together and the men said that they would put the photos on their MySpace page. Well, they have made my blog, so touche´... ooops that´s French.

Upon returning back to my house, I spent some time figuring out to where all my belongings had now migrated. Esmeralda, my host mom, likes to clean my room every day, make my bed, and move all my stuff around. Each afternoon I have to think, if I were a brush, to where would I want to move next? She is so sweet and it's nice to have a motherly figure in my life again. Since we have the same shoe size, she even let me borrow a pair for the party last night. And, if you were wondering, the dress I wore is my 1 skirt I brought that converts into a dress.

Tomorrow I start Spanish school, and I need to find someplace that will take me in as a volunteer even though I lack any relevant life skills.

Quinceanera Crasher

In keeping to my plan, I crashed Astrid's quinceanera. In fact, I had so much fun at the fiesta, I could make this my new social outing and become an official quinceanera crasher.

I witnessed the religious ceremony in a large cathedral and it all reminded me of a wedding, but much, much longer. Unfortunately, my eyes took a nap, and I missed most of what was said. It didn't matter anyway since I haven't started Spanish school, but others mentioned that the priest gave social commentary on the role of women in society. I awoke to find everyone in line to eat crackers.

After the ceremony, I grabbed some drinks with the other students and then we hit the fiesta and joined the 200 other guests. Dancing began and I had no dance partner. I eyed a green-haired 14 year old kid who showed off some great moves dancing with his mom. I figured that if I could ask Stephan Hawking, who is an awesome dancer, to dance, I sure as hell could muster the courage to ask this kid. He said yes while Astrid and the other girls giggled. I could be arrested for craddle robbing along with quienceanera crashing.

Jaime had to teach me how to use my two left feet on the dance floor since I had never merembe before. However, after dancing with Jaime, my two left feet had a stream of new dance partners all night long. I´m convinced that Guatemalan men have a different genetic makeup. I think their dance gene is overexpressed because none of the guys I know can dance like that. All the dancing left me quite dizzy. My dance partners spun me around quite a few times and I often confused the hand hide and seek games and missed a few more turns.

Later that evening, the other students and I hit a couple clubs in town and we showed off our un-Guatemalan moves on the dance floor. In the wee hours, Caleb, a fellow student, wanted to walk home. After the other night, I insisted that we cab it. I won the debate after I forked out the cash for the cab for the entire group. I made it home safely this time.

Scream Really Loud and Bad Men Will Go Away

Before leaving, I wish I had taken a refresher course in self defense. The only move I remember is entitled "Monkey grab peaches, twist and turn". Thankfully, I haven't employed that technique although I almost had to last night in Xela where I am now.

I wouldn't normally go out alone at night in Guatemala, but my Spanish School is only a couple short blocks from the Guatemalan family with whom I am staying. At 8:45pm, I walked a couple blocks and turned down the street the school is on. A car stopped and 2 men got out. One started to follow me and when I started to run, he started to run after me and indicated that he wanted my bag. He began to pull something (most likely a knife or gun) from his back pocket. I tried to talk some reason into him by screaming as loud as I could . I couldn't believe how much volume these lungs can bellow. He got cold feet and turned and drove off. I ran back to my house and called it a night.

In all my numerous travels around the world, this was definitely one of the scariest moments besides the time I had to save a German girl from a mugging in South Africa. I promise to exert more caution especially since I was only on day 2 of 365. I also refuse to let muggers define my impressions of this beautiful country and its friendly people. Gladys, the school maestra came over and brought me special tea to calm my nerves. I will explore Xela today during daylight hours.

My temporary cell phone number until I can get one that allows for international texts is 502 43608200.

Vamos a la playa de lava

Although we had never met before, Guatemala welcomed me with open arms. I arrived to greet her at 4:30am without a hotel reservation, anyone to greet me, no transportation or a real plan and she didn't seem to mind. Immediately after stepping off the plane, I walked into a cafe and had breakfast. I later met Elyssa and Sophia; both Guatemalan, but living in LA. Their warm smiles made me feel at home. I stayed with them at the airport until daylight came around to say "hello" at 6:15am. Due to the dangers of Guatemala City, I only travel during the day.

I cabbed it to Antigua with Rachel, a fellow American I met at the airport. We hit a cafe and I enjoyed my second round of breakfast. Lindsay, another lone American traveller, joined us and we chatted away the morning and I enjoyed my first unfrenetic day in a very, very long time. I entertained them with my travel tips and tricks and what gadgets to pack; a tale for another entry. Eventually, I checked into a hotel so that I could explore the city.

Antigua is a quaint fairytale like town with mulitcolored shops and charming people. Whenever I appeared lost, locals always came to my rescue helping me find my way. I returned the generosity by answering an oral survey for a few girls who wanted to practice their English. They even took pics of me to attach and I felt like the tourist attraction. At least here, I actually feel tall; all 5' 1 1/2" of me. The rest of the day I spent breaking in my new trail running shoes while wandering aimlessly around the city.

After awhile, I had to decide what I was doing for the next day since my hotel had no room for me for the next night. After a heated debate with myself, I eventually won and decided to go to Quetzaltenango aka Xela early to crash a quinceanera with Rachel and vamos a la playa de lava.

Volcan Pacaya actually spills its lava for all tourists to view. Of course, tourists must go at their own risk and many of my crew members fell and cut or burned themselves while walking over the hot and unstable lava rock. In true American style, I toasted marshmellows next to the lava while avoiding the falling lava rock. I can now cross that off my list of life experiences-toasted marshmellows over lava, check! Inadvertently, my brand new trail running shoes melted on my walk. I'm assuming that there is no shoe warranty for standing on lava rock above flowing hot lava and better my shoes melt than my feet, right? Off to Xela...

What to Pack

When deciding what to pack on my year long trip, many things came to mind... Fairfax Scoop's ice cream, my fuzzy robe, Lu's sarcastic comments. However, my 50L carry-on sized backpack would not allow for them. Normally, I would travel with my usual two pairs of pants, two short sleeved shirts, and 1 long-sleeved shirt, but I had to consider variations in climates that factored in more weight. I threw in a fleece, a windbreaker, a bathing suit, and one skirt that converts into a dress. You can once again expect to see me dirty and in the same outfits in every picture. I am also bringing a pair of trail running shoes, Keen water shoes and I couldn't leave without my Haviana flip flops.

My clothes may not take up much room, but boy do all those drugs. I feel like I could set up shop on a street corner and sell out of my backpack. The pharmacy gave me Tamiflu should I catch the bird flu virus, a year's supply of malaria drugs and a bunch of other drugs for altitude sickness, random bacteria, and of course diarrhea. My organic vitamins will only last me 30 days and I may need to call in a FedEx shipment along the way.

Since I have traveled quite frequently, I was up to date on all my shots; Hep A, B, tetanus, typhoid, yellow fever, menigococcal, and polio. However, I have been avoiding the Japanese Encephalitis vaccine due to the bad side effects and Rabies shot because of the pain. I decided to check with the travel clinic 10 days before leaving to see what I really needed only to find out that I did indeed need both shots, but I also needed 3 weeks to get them for the 3 shots each took. Oh well. At least I wrote, notarized and had witnessed my last will and testament before leaving. Although, I'm not sure I have much to give away since I've resorted my life to the basics.

I've enjoyed downsizing my life into a backpack. In a whirlwind of activities, I've managed to divest my couches, my liquor cabinet that was quite extensive considering I don't drink, tupperware, just about every book I have ever bought since I was 7 years old including all the classics, half my closet, and a hodgepodge of random stuff. I am amazed at how many things accumulated in my life over the years. My backpack is purposely small so that I can focus my life on important things such as relationships and experiences. I really don't need another dress nor souvenir, but unfortunately, the pharmacist had no vaccines nor drugs for shopping addicts. I may be in trouble... at least I have this link that Ward gave me as a nice send off, which made me smile. http://june.fujimoto.youaremighty.com/ Thanks Ward!